Walking the Philosopher's Path

My first shrine-and-temple-
 hunt of July, I finally stopped by Shimogamo Jinja, sister shrine to Kamigamo Jinja.
For a review of the history of the Kamo Clan shrines, check out the lovely legend in the Aoi Matsuri post. Shimogamo Jinja is actually hidden behind the buildings at the Shimogamo Jinja-mae bus stop. It's smaller, more compact than Kamigamo, but also has a small quiet stream running through it.

 

Aoi leaves are a symbol of both Kamo shrines

 

There's also quite a bit of tiger imagery at the Kamo shrines, although I'm not sure why.

 

Here you can see the interlocking wood technique used to construct the building.

Ancient Shinto Shrines such as Ise Jinguu used this ancient construction technique of interlocking wood pieces and dowels, using absolutely no nails,

which were considered impure for shrine buildings.

Testugaku no Michi, also known as the Philosopher's Walk, the Philosopher's Path, or the Path of Philosophy, runs between Ginkakuji-michi, the road east of and leading up to the temple, down south to Nanzenji Temple. It's a beautiful strolling path, lined with cherry trees and lots of flowering plants--at this time of year, the flowers in bloom were primarily ajisai.
The route is famous because a 20th c. philosopher Nishida Kitaro often pensively wandered the path in his day.
Supposedly the name of the path comes from a Philosonphenweg in Heidelberg, Germany, after a Kyoto University professor, Iwao Kokusho, studied there. It's very beautiful during hanami season when the sakura are all in bloom, and reportedly very crowded as well. This time of year, crowds are very sparse,
very un-crowd-like in point of fact...

 

There are lots of small food vendors and shops lining the street up to Ginkakuji.

Below is shop selling prints, printed fans, printed handkerchiefs, etc. of Takehisa Yumeji's drawings and paintings. If you image-google his name, you'll immediately find

the piece of the woman with the cat which I fell in love with.

The hedged path leading to Ginkakuji's entrance is beautifully lined with stone wall, bamboo, and camellias. Ginkakuji, meaning "Silver Pavilion" (in contrast with Kinkakuji the "Golden Pavilion") is formally called Jishoji. In 1482, it was originally the villa of the Ashikaga Shogun Yoshimasa, who, like so many shoguns and emperors, willed his villa's grounds be donated as a temple after his death, and now belongs to the Shokakuji branch of Rinzai Zen. Unlike Kinkakuji, Ginkakuji has no respective silver leaf on its main hall, the Kannonden; it used to have black lacquer, none of which remains on the building today.

The first floor, Shinkuden, of the Kannonden is built in the Shoin-zukuri style of

architecture, while the second floor, called Chouonkaku, reflects the Chinese temple style.

 

These cones of sand, called kougetsudai, are meant to reflect the moonlight at night in the garden.

 

These beautiful garden paths were arranged by the painter and landscaper Soami.

 

A little wish-granting pond

 

The Tougudou is the oldest example of Shoin style existing today.

 

View of Kyoto at the top of the garden hill

 

On a side note: There is a special tea, unique to Ginkakuji, which you can buy in their souvenir shop...tea with gold leaf.